Telescopic Spinning Rods made of High Modulus Carbon Manufactured In Japan.
Spinning rods are a type of well balanced light fishing rods made of Graphite Carbon Fiber with the eyes decrease in size from the handle to the tip. Rods are amazingly sensitive to detect the slightest bites, they combine a soft tip action for long, smooth casting with the smallest of weight together with a surprisingly powerful butt section to handle large fighting fish. Spinning rods are a type of fishing rod that features a reel seat facing toward the ground, which is the opposite of baitcasting and most spincast fishing rods. With the guides and reel seat facing down, the spinning rod is extremely balanced.
Good fishing rods have a high modulus, a high strength, and middle percentage of fibers. The higher the modulus, the more energy the rod can store and release. The energy is a way of the speed and the power of the rod. Most important differences in the structure of the composite graphite blanks are weight per square meter, the type of fiber, the amount of resin, and the specific direction, what make each rod kind unique and different. A high quality rod usually has a high modulus, a high strength and an intermediate percentage of fibers, a unique combination of materials that focus on four major factors: Durability, Strength, Flexibility, and Sensitivity.
Spinning rods can be used for trolling and still fishing with live bait, bottom-fishing, deep-sea fishing, but they work best for casting lures or bait. Spinning rods are excellent at casting, they more flexible than bait-casting rods
. Spinning rods varying in 5 different Actions
- the amount of movement the rod has when casting: Ultra Light, Light, Medium, Heavy, and Extra Heavy, that can handle a wide variety of species. The action should be correlated with the type and size fish that you intend to catch.
- Ultra Light Action best to use for
Pan fish, Sunfish
- Light Action are best for fishing in heavier current, targeting bigger
- Medium Action are great for light trolling,
Largemouth Bass, and
- Heavy Action good to use for trolling, fishing
Carp family species and large
- Extra Heavy Action good to use for
Sockeye Salmon, heavy trolling, salt water fishing species like
Striped Bass and
Bluefish from inshore.
There is more action (flexibility) in an Ultra light rod than there is in a Heavy action one. Rod Taper describes where the rod flexes under load. As the rod taper descends from Extra Fast to Slow, the flex transfers through the rod towards the butt section, giving a more parabolic flex of the rod.
A rod with heavy action is often combined with a slow taper, which offers a more parabolic flex of the rod. This is essential, when fishing relatively low line class for powerful species, that need to be kept clear of weed and other obstacles.
A rod with light action normally has a fast taper and will therefore mainly flex in the top section. This combination is ideal for bite indication, and will help you keep the line tight on species with fast runs and quick direction changes.
makes these rods perfect for casting light float rigs or lures and uses it for fish of all sizes. The diameter of the rod determines its flexibility, which is the measure of how far it can bend without breaking when a fish is fighting hard. Thicker and stronger rods are used for bigger, more aggressive fish that would break medium and small rods. When fighting a fish, you want the rod to partially bend, so it'll take some of the tension off the line. The rod's job is to take tension off the line. This is good, because if there was no transfer of tension, the line would break. Using the right rod is important because it enables the rod to bend but not too much, absorbing the tension from the line, allowing you to fight the fish and win.
The guides of the spinning rods are smaller diameter rings than typical because the supple nature and thin diameter of braided line has a unique casting ability that mono and fluoro do not. Slick braided line shoots straight through these smaller guides (more like a baitcaster) for long distance casts. Longer spinning rods with grip handles for two-handing casting techniques are used for saltwater fishing
from inshore, or
fishing. The longer the rod, the greater the mechanical advantage in casting, allow you to cover wider area of water.
allows to get you deep into the brush where large fish hide. Very Light Weight
allows you to fish all day without arm fatigue.
Very long - great for drift fishing, extra sensitive - good for bottom bouncing and super light - excellent for casting comfort; these are the most flexible spinning rods.
Several helpful Tips
Never lift your catch, always play with the fish and use landing net to land it. Always extend and insert telescopic sections very gently, try do not extend them too forcibly, try to keep it off the ground to avoid dirt getting into the joints. Wipe it clean with a cloth before taking it down so you don't jam dirt into the joint, rinse rod with freshwater after using it in saltwater as soon as you can. Always remember to
take a good care of your rods and they will work for you for a very long time and will bring you large amount of catches and a huge amount of great emotions. More great emotions - longer and healthier is your life.
You should open and close the rod with a special care, always keep control of the rod sections. Telescopic rods can easily take even very heavy load, they are very strong and durable but they need to be handled with cared too. They usually don't break while fighting the fish but they could break while they are being closed without special care. Opening and closing these rods must be done very carefully and gently, no sideway pressure should be applied to the rod while closing it.
Opening Telescopic Rod.
Telescopic rods are very simple to open, but there are a couple of points to keep in mind to simplify the process and avoid damaging the rod:
- Uncover and remove the cap of guide along a line, otherwise it may break the fishing rod. Drill the fishing line through the bottom guide to the top guide through every guide. Any guide missing drilling may result in breaking the top end. If the fishing line is in disorder, don't draw the line forcibly. Dragging too forcibly on any point of the fishing rod may result in the break of fishing rod.
- Expose Section by section out the fishing rod from top, and screw the joint of two sections till they are tightly fixed.
- When fully pulling out the rod, align all the guides.
Make sure to open the rod from the tip section to bottom one by one tightly and don't apply any sideway pressure, so the sections can not move when twisted. Extend each section individually and make sure it's snug but not too tight before moving on to the next section. Do not apply too much pressure when pulling sections out as that could cause pieces to get stuck.
Closing Telescopic Rod.
Telescopic rods are closed in the opposite direction, starting with the bottom section and collapsing them all the way to the tip one. It's recommended to hold each section at its thickest point of the section which is near the joint.
- After use, loosen the joints in B section and draw in the fishing rod section by section from end.
- Insert the end section into the second section, the second section into the third section, etc., screw the joint of two sections till they are tightly fixed.
- Fix the fishing line reel, pull out the line and drill it from bottom guide to the top guide.
- After use, loosen the joints in B section and draw in the fishing rod section by section from end.
- To avoid becoming flexible, there is a 4-5mm gap between every connection. Don't ever forcibly insert the section.
Once again make sure not to apply any sideway pressure, use fingers, not palms, place the bottom of the rod on a flat level stable surface and push each piece in. Once the section becomes lose it will slide down.
If rod sections get stuck at a joint:
Occasionally a section may get stuck. The most frustrating things that can happen to a telescopic fishing rod (after braking) is to become jammed at a joint. This can happen due to dirt/mud/sand in the joint but the main cause of the joints fixed too tightly is extending the rod too forcibly.
When it happens there are several techniques to unstick the sucker.
Prevention is better than cure: try do not extend the rod too forcibly, try to keep your rod off the ground at all times to avoid dirt getting into the joints. Wipe it clean with a cloth before taking it down so you don't jam dirt into the joint. If you've been using it in saltwater give it a quick rinse with freshwater as soon after use as you can. Its a good idea to put a protectant like WD-40, Tackle Guard or a silicon lube on the joints.
Try to force the thinner section in by twisting them, hold the anti-sliding place near joints with the fingers and screw and press sections in reverse direction to loosen the joints but again make sure not to use sideway pressure. You might try using rubber pads to increase the grip. Always hold sections with your fingers close to joints.
Have a partner hold one side of the joint while you hold the other and gently twist and press sections without using sideway pressure. Both of you hold sections with your fingers close to joints.
B. Pour hot water on large side of the joint as close to the joint as you can to rapidly expand it. Then after a few seconds try twisting or pushing the small side of the joint back down. Its best if you can do this under a tap where the water starts off cold then gets progressively warmer over a few seconds as this reduces the risk of stress cracks developing in the joint.
C. If the hot water technique fails try the next step up. Do the same as above but put ice on the small side of the joint to shrink it. This is easiest if you get some ice from your freezer place it on a cloth or towel and then wrap that around the rod and hold it while you heat the other side with hot water.
D. Try a penetrating lubricant like WD-40, CRC or Tackle Guard. Leave the joint to soak for an hour or two and then try gently to take the rod down.
If the tip section is stuck, keep the stuck section at the joint, put the bottom of the rod on a flat not-too-hard surface (put towel or other soft material), hold the fixed joints and lightly tap the stuck section against the bottom. You can try to combine it with a lubricant or a hot water: pour hot water on large side of the joint and lightly tap the stuck section against the bottom. Always remember to do it very gently, not to apply any sideway pressure, hold larger section with your palms and thinner section with fingers close to joints. Once the section becomes lose it will slide down.
Z. If nothing helped buy another rod from our website and take more care of your fishing gear in the future!
Take a good care of your rod.
Rod maintenance has nothing to do with rod breakage. Anglers will always find ways to break their rods, starting from regular (car doors) to very stupid (standing on it) or while fighting a huge fish. What should or should not be done to keep our fishing tackle in good shape and ensure many years of fishing enjoyment?
Never lift your catch, always play with the fish and use
to land it. Never raise your rod high with the large fish, keep your handle angle at about 45 degrees or less. All graphite rods, are at risk of breakage if the rod is "high sticked". When the tip of the rod is raised too high, the weaker tip section bears too much of the load and can easily break.
This is one of the most common causes of breakage and is 100% angler-caused
Always extend and insert telescopic sections very gently, try do not extend them too forcibly, try to keep it off the ground to avoid dirt getting into the joints.
3. Remember, using heavier line and cranking down the drag may easily result in unexpected graphite rod breakage. Graphite is less tolerant of abuse than fiberglass. Always remember your rod's power rating and don't use fishing line or bait that is too heavy.
4. Be extra careful when getting your fishing rod out of the car, especially if it is a graphite rod. Too many people break their rod on the car door.
Don't remain the fishing rod in the back carriage of car for a long time. The long time sealed and high temperature or very low temperature conditions are harmful for fishing rod.
Always pay attention when fishing under or near the high voltage wire because of electrical shock potentiality by high voltage wire and thunder. Carbon fiber is high electricity-conductive material, so it is very dangerous if it touches electrical wire especially when you are close to the water.
7. Wipe it clean with a cloth before taking it down so you don't jam dirt into the joint, rinse rod with freshwater after using it in saltwater as soon as you can.
8. If you seal up the damp or sordid fishing rod, the moisture will possibly cause the bubbling or scaling off of lacquer. To prevent this, always rub off the moisture on fishing rod and keep it in a ventilated place. Never store a rod in its tube. Humidity can cause the moisture.
9. Always rub off the moisture, salt and dirt before storage.
Never use brush, toothpaste, gasoline, dope and other organic substances to clean the fishing rod, it may occur damage to rod surface and even the rod itself. Don't clean the rod by steel brush. You shall gently remove the dirt, any remaining "fish stuff" or salt by towel, soft brush or cloth dipped with a little soap and water, and after it is dry completely, brush up with car wax or leather. This will make it easier to clean and help preserve the rod's finish. Wiping the rod down with furniture polish after each use is a good way to keep it looking its best.
11. The best way to store a rod over long periods is to hang it in its case on a pin or clothes hanger inside a wardrobe.
Always remember to take a good care of your rods and they will work for you for a very long time and will bring you large amount of catches and a huge amount of great emotions. More great emotions - longer and healthier is your life.
Back to top